What's in a Macaron?

BUILD-A-BOX of macarons from Dana's Bakery Photo: Katherine D. Lee

People who've had near-death experiences often describe visions of a bright white light, a phenomenon dismissed by scientists as a surge of chemicals in the dying brain. But maybe these visions aren't hallucinations. Maybe, at the threshold of death lies a sneak peek of heaven, and the gateway to heaven is composed of steep cliffs and billowy clouds of fluffy white meringue. A glimpse of a world that pristine and magnificent would certainly be blinding to mere mortals.

To that point, there's something about a macaron that really is a piece of heaven. Meringue is a key component of the macaron—mixed with almond flour to create a light and airy confection with a cream filling.

A top-tier macaron is a dance of blessed spirits. I can't tell you how many times a large macaron from Bouchon Bakery on my lunch break has transformed a stern cup of coffee into an MGM musical. Just one bite and you are Singin' In the Rain!

Strangely enough, NYC is teeming with macaron shops. A condition that I like to refer to as a Marie Antoinette economy. Goodbye delis, fishmongers, pizza places and all those other basic food stores and bread shops pushed out by surging rents. Let us eat $4 cupcakes! Let us eat gelato! Imported loose candy! And Macarons, puh-lenty of macarons! For some reason, they're the only stores that can afford to be here!


Now there are macarons and there are macarons. Dana's Bakery macarons are definitely the latter. These are fun, informal macarons, with entertaining flavors inspired by childhood favorites: Orange Creamsicle, Pink Lemonade, Candy Cane, Red Velvet and Gingerbread. The list goes on. I don't know how Dana does it, but the Orange Creamsicle macaron tastes like orange creamsicles; the Fruity Pebbles macaron tastes like Fruity Pebbles; and the Birthday Cake macaron tastes so much like birthday cake, you can almost taste the stray drops of candle wax. The Red Velvet macaron deftly mimics Red Velvet cake, I only wish the filling tasted more like cream cheese. (File that under First World Problems for sure.)

Dana's Bakery is mainly available online but fresh Dana's Bakery macarons can also be found around the city at various locations of The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf. Freshness is key. Ain't nothin' good about a stale macaron.

Even when I'm not actually buying anything, I like visiting the DB Website just to browse through all the clever and amazing new flavors available. There's always something specially made for the season. This month's highlight is... well... let's put it this way, if I know who's playing the Super Bowl this year, it is not because I know anything about football:

Denver Chocolate Peanut Butter vs Seattle Seasalt Caramel
Photo from Dana's Bakery website.

Popcorn Love

Click here for "Popcorn Love" by New Edition.

Growing up, one of my favorite objects in the kitchen was a big yellow bowl that my mother used mainly for one of two things: mixing cake batter or serving popcorn. So whenever that bowl came down from the cabinet it was as if a party switch were turned on in my head. No microwave popcorn, nor Jiffy Pop, could compare to the taste of fresh popcorn and melted butter that filled that bowl.

Now, I don't know how old you think popcorn is but it goes back way before the Pilgrims and Indians. The earliest evidence of popcorn, according to History.com, has recently been traced to more than 6,000 years ago in Peru. (It's remarkable how researchers are capable of tracking this, I can't help picturing trails of extremely stale popcorn leading to ancient concession stands carved in stone.)

Of course, popcorn is intimately connected to American history. The first commercial popcorn machine was invented in the late 1800s, in Chicago, by Charles Cretors. Colonial families sometimes ate popcorn with sugar and cream for breakfast (I've tried this, it tastes a lot like Kellogg's Corn Pops but with a high-risk of choking to death.) And the popcorn business thrived during The Great Depression.


A Street Cart Named Delicious: Lithograph of a 1907 peanut & popcorn wagon, invented by C. Cretors & Company. Photo from Wikipedia.

It's comforting to know that even though the world is constantly changing, our love for popcorn endures. I'm seeing a lot of new brands and flavors of popcorn in food stores and I myself am eating a lot more popcorn these days. Who knows why. It's fun. It's filling. And it's also a natural source of fiber. (It's also gluten free!)



Good To The Last Kernel: American Farmer Kettle Popped Corn

It's becoming more and more evident that the choices we make as consumers define the world in which we live. American Farmer popcorn is one of those brands that isn't just selling you popcorn but a vision of the future. One percent of popcorn profits goes to its mission, supporting American Farmland Trust. But can you judge the taste of popcorn on the goodness of a mission and creative packaging? No, which is why food blogs come in handy. Having tried American Farmer Kettle Popped Corn firsthand, I can tell you that this is primo kettle corn. It has an eloquent veneer of sweetness and a hearty crunch. I'm also a fan of the short list of natural ingredients: Popcorn, Cane Sugar, Sunflower Oil, Salt.



In Popcorn We Trust: American Farmer Popcorn


If you like the intensely buttery taste of movie theater popcorn, you'll love All Natural Old School Movie Theater Popped Corn, also by American Farmer. The name says it all, as does the image of Abe Lincoln wearing 3D glasses. This popcorn does a pretty good job of conjuring up the essence of what you buy at the movies. But unlike those billowing buckets of brilliant yellow, which have the caloric stuff of Big Macs, this popcorn is all natural: no GMOs and MSG, just kernels, sunflower oil, salt and natural flavor. As for the term "natural flavor," I don't know exactly what ingredients constitute "natural flavor" but I do know that every time I eat a handful of this popcorn I feel the impulse to scan a dimly lit room for empty seats.

On a side note, I don't always get popcorn at the movies but once in a while you have to give in to your inner 9-year-old. If you like popcorn and candy, try mixing them together. Per a friend's suggestion the other week at The Great Gatsby, I mixed popcorn and Mike & Ike's and I luh-hoved it!


The Great Mixby: Movie popcorn sprinkled with candy


And now for the grand finale. Let me preface this by reiterating, nothing beats freshly popped corn you make yourself at home. It's so easy to do, too. I usually use olive oil or canola oil. (Just be careful not to turn the heat up too high when using olive oil, which burns at a lower temperature than canola oil.) Post-popping I've tried sprinkling Parmesan cheese on top but I'm not crazy about it. I've also tried adding rosemary and thyme to the heated oil. The goal is to simulate the taste of baked chicken. Or at least that's my goal but I've never come close to achieving it. Perhaps someone like Jean Arnold could.

Jean Arnold, as I have discovered from reading the back of this small, stay-fresh pouch (think cat treats for humans), is founder of 479° Popcorn. Arnold is more than a founder, she's a culinary colonel of kernels. Case in point, the name she came up with for her popcorn, 479°, comes from what she has discovered to be the precise temperature for perfect popping. That's pretty impressive. Overall, I'd say that Arnold has done for popcorn what Yves Saint Laurent did for the trouser suit. She's transformed it into something dramatically sophisticated and refined. Good luck being refined while eating it, however, especially if you like truffles. 479° Black Truffle + White Cheddar popcorn is incredibly savory and delicious. Seriously, what popcorn have you tried lately that has a beginning taste, mid-palate taste and finish? This popcorn is charged with aromatic truffle oil and aged white-cheddar flavor. It's outstanding. I only wish there was a cream soup version.

Next, I tried 479° Sea Salt Caramel. Caramel popcorn this good doesn't need a prize, it is the prize. Think salted caramel on the verge of rich toffee. Of course, it's made with natural, organic ingredients, so it's a healthy indulgence—an oxymoron if I ever heard one.


479° Popcorn: Sea Salt Caramel, Black Truffle + White Cheddar*


*Goes well with martinis.

Heaven Is a Vanilla Macaron

Image taken from online of a vanilla macaron from Ladurée (not one of the participating bakeries for Macaron Day NYC 2012)

Not only was today the first day of spring, but it was also Macaron Day. In honor of this, Francois Payard bakery, along with a whole list of other French bakeries throughout NYC, gave away free macarons! By 8:30am, there I was at a Payard on Houston, standing on a short line. After I ordered a cup of coffee, I was asked which flavor macaron I'd like to have.

I scanned the beautiful array of sprightly and speckled colors and picked vanilla. It came in a small white paper bag the size of a dress pocket. (Note to Self: The next time I wear a dress with pockets, buy a macaron for one pocket.)

Seated at a table, I took one bite of my petit macaron and, my God, it was AMAZING!! Do not underestimate the flavor power of a quality macaron. What a special treat. It was so good, I wrote a poem about it:

Heaven is a vanilla macaron;
A treasure, if ever, was one.
It looks as precious as a little spring lamb,
And tastes like a mouthful of sun!

Gluten Free, Flavor Full

Fear no more the search for gluten-free cakes and cupcakes for friends and loved-ones with a gluten-intolerance. It's places like this, Tu-lu's gluten-free bakery, aka Tully's Bakery, in the East Village, that motivate food enthusiasts like me to start a blog.

Though I am not one of the 1 in 133 Americans affected by Celiac disease, I do love cupcakes; this is essentially why I'm writing about Tu-lu's, where I recently purchased two large cupcakes.

Behold:




Chocolate cupcake with chocolate frosting: First off, you can smell the chocolate when you cut/bite into it. The cake itself is dense with a natural, traditional chocolate flavor. The chocolate frosting is stupendous: intense, bold, yummy. You almost want to search for a hint of brandy in there because the flavor is so intensely savory, but the only intoxicating element in this frosting is the divine taste of rich cocoa. It's also so light that it melts in your mouth.

Vanilla cupcake with vanilla cream-cheese frosting: The cake has a sturdy yet moist texture and a mild vanilla flavor that doesn't seek the limelight, it's more like the wafer cone that holds the frozen custard, which in this case is a robust vanilla frosting with a splendiferous cream-cheese punch.

As soon as I knew it, my glass of milk was empty and I was staring down at a plate of gluten-free crumbs. But in spite of having just devoured two cupcakes, I didn't feel heavy or weighed down. It made me wonder if maybe I have a sensitivity to gluten? I don't, but it's to the baker's credit that these festive treats make you ponder the presence of gluten in your diet as something potentially deleterious to your health rather than other GF baked goods that simply leave you feeling sorry for those who can't eat gluten.

So who's responsible? Quality, as I discover time and time again, is no accident, but the result of training, effort, skill, passion and ability. Owner/baker, Tully, originally from Memphis, Tennessee, studied at Le Cordon Bleu and then moved here to NYC, where she interned at Gramercy Tavern. You can read her story on her Web site which basically describes how she was diagnosed as gluten intolerant and that this twist of fate led her on a search for delicious gluten-free cakes and cookies. There were none to be found, so she strove to create a recipe of her own, ultimately arriving at a winning combination of rice flour, potato flour and tapioca flour along with natural and organic ingredients. What an amazing story of turning trial into triumph, Tully's Bakery is dharma at its most delicious.