Langues de Chat Got Your Tongue? They Should, They're Chocolate!

Sometimes receiving a present from a friend or family member who's traveled abroad is just as exciting as being a traveler. After a recent trip to Europe, my good friend Margery — a naturally creative person with a gift for being colorful and expressive — was nice enough to bring me back a beautiful box of chocolates from ... Vienna.

Ah, Vienna! Land of Schubert and Strauss and ... chocolate cat tongues.

Vienna from Belvedere by Bernardo Bellotto, 1758

That's right, chocolate in the oddly-imagined shape of cat tongues, aka katzenzugen or lingua de gato, depending on where you are in Europe or South America. With a name that cat lovers will find either cute or revolting, langues de chat, as they are called in French, are elongated paddles of chocolate with rounded ends. 

Tongue and cheeky: The box cover of Demel's langues de chat 

And here they are:

Sharp-tongued: razor-thin chocolates from Demel

Beautiful isn't it? Like peeking under the lid of a baby grand piano and gazing down at perfectly aligned strings and hammers. Such exquisite neatness and uniformity, and all for the sake of enjoyment! 

These finely crafted, razor-thin chocolates are made by Viennese chocolatier Demel.  

But why are they called "cat tongues"? And what came first, the shape or the name? Did an 18th century aristocrat have the chocolates made in honor of a tongue-projecting tabby? Unfortunately there isn't any anecdotal information to be found online regarding how this eccentric name came into being. All I could uncover from extensive Googling is that cat-tongue chocolates originated in Austria and are a spinoff of cat-tongue biscuits, which originated in France.



                                                     LANGUES DE CHAT BISCUITS

Freshly baked langues de chat cookies from www.meilleurduchef.com

                                                     

Parfait: Raspberry Syllabub with Langues de Chat by Jamie Oliver

However you feel about the name, langues de chat chocolates, like their cookie counterparts, are the perfect — OK, yes, purrfect  — garnish for a scoop of ice cream or an espresso. They can also be enjoyed straight out of the box, when all you crave is one lick or two of chocolate.


Vive les langues de chat! And vive les bon amis!
 

Cake for Breakfast

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday... If that sounds tedious to you then you're doing it all wrong. It's too easy to grind ourselves down to nothing in this corporate-driven world. You must try and remove yourself from the treadmill—at least, once in a while. Not the gym treadmill, the treadmill of routine.

With that in mind, I give you cake. But a kinder, gentler cake: olive oil cake. Remember in A Moveable Feast when Hemingway went into a Parisian brasserie and ordered something along the lines of potato salad, beer and sausage? Just reading that made me happy. So manly and yet so refined. How Hemingway is that...

Too often we relegate foods we eat to specific roles on the plate, or associate them with specific meals. Yes, we've come a long way: salads with watermelon and goat cheese, frittatas any time of the day... But I personally still don't feel that I'm living the dream. I want to cook more meals for myself that speak to who I am as a person. The temper of my soul.

This is a breakfast combo that I feel embraces that sentiment because it combines two foods I love.

It starts with a cake that you bake yourself: Mario Batali's Grapefruit and olive oil cake —a very simple and healthy recipe as far as cake goes. There's no frosting or filling, it's just plain yellow cake. In addition to that, what makes this cake better for you than others is that it's made with extra virgin olive oil instead of butter and also includes bread crumbs, which can be healthier than flour if you use whole wheat bread crumbs. Batali also suggests a side of crème fraîche or whipped cream. With cake, I generally prefer the latter however, I'm trying hard to lower my dairy intake (I hate you dairy industry) so I gave it an ample dusting of powdered sugar instead.

It's a great cake to have around, especially for breakfast as it is superb with coffee—and bacon. I don't eat mammal, but as luck, and food evolution would have it, I discovered Applegate Farms bacon—the most amazing turkey bacon ever— around four years ago. It's all-natural, meaty and delicious.

Whether you're having a leisurely or hectic morning: Olive-oil cake and bacon. It's a delightfully rustic breakfast combo that compliments any sunrise.

Christmas Stollen, Happiness Found

Stollen fruit and nut bread by Hot Bread Kitchen 

I never expected, back in December 2014, to discover something new at the breakfast table, but there it was on Christmas morning: a short, lumpy loaf, swaddled like the baby Jesus himself in a thick blanket of powdered sugar—the very picture of old-fashioned holiday gatherings. Nevertheless, the calzone-size stollen remained untouched throughout the entire meal, overshadowed by a heavily frosted bûche de Noël decorated with meringue fungi, a plastic Santa-driven sled, plastic Season's Greetings and an equally plastic spear of holly.

It wasn't until later in the evening, propelled by boredom, that I gravitated toward the stollen, knife and plate in hand. Slicing through the powdered sugar wasn't as messy as I thought it would be. Back to the living room I went, to enjoy my sliver of stollen and coffee (brewed earlier but still hot), on the couch, in front of the glowing monolith that is my parents' television. 

Somewhat like panettone but denser, the bread-cake hybrid had me at guten tag. The cool feeling of powdered sugar on your tongue, mixed with the heavy bread, marzipan, dried fruit and spices, makes you feel all bundled up inside, and wrapped and warm and ready for winter. 

I had to learn more. 

Legend has it—a most appetizing phrase—that stollen goes back to the 14th century in Germany, where the existence of stollen was recorded for the first time in 1474 on a bill at a Christian hospital.

By most historical accounts, the Middle Ages was a tough time for man and bread alike. When I think of 14th century Europe I think of brown-cowled monks and giant cauldrons like in The Name of the Rose—the Umberto Eco novel turned Sean Connery movie that takes place in 14th century Italy. Of course, nothing records the general human condition of a specific time and place more tellingly than art. With that in mind, here is one of the most famous sculptures from Germany, circa 1325:

The Roettgen Pieta, Early 14th Century, Reinesches Landesmuseum, Bonn, Germany

As you can see from its heavy emphasis on emotional anguish and physical pain, this 3-foot Gothic statue does not suggest an era that would bring us the Cronut. In addition to the plague, Europeans of that century had also endured dismally bland stollen made solely of flour, yeast and water.

It took an official letter from the Pope, more than a hundred years later, known as The Butter Missive, to loosen the rules of Advent and bring butter to stollen. And you can bet your sweet marzipan that butter made stollen better.

Today, stollen, aka Weihnachtsstollen, aka Christstollen, is gaining in popularity far beyond the borders of Dresden, the city that lays claim to the original stollen and most-prized version, and where an annual stollen festival is held at the Dresden Striezelmarket—the oldest Christmas market in Germany. Dresden of course takes its stollen very seriously.  Authentic Dresden Stollen can only be found in Dresden, baked by any one of 150 official Dresden stollen bakers.

For those who have never tried stollen, if you're looking for ways to relax and enjoy the cold winter, I recommend stollen with a cup of coffee or hot chocolate. The power of a good stollen is its ability to take the harshness out of winter, transforming snow-covered rooftops and driveways into powdered-sugar landscapes. And, like its legacy, stollen itself is long-lasting. Buy it in October, keep it refrigerated, and it'll stay edible at least until March.